day 32

today was too cold and wet to be believed. so we went on a tour of the art in the metros. we went to the metro bibliothèque françois mitterrand. the guidebook said it was like a cathedral of glass and steel - except that no one noticed as they were running through the station like their life depended on it...


the train pulling out at arts et métiers...

day 31

another rainy day. near gare de l'est

day 30

there are several homeless men who sleep in front of the cité des arts. they are there every night with a tent, sleeping bags and even a small television. during the day they clear up and some of their stuff is left near the flower beds opposite the front entrance.

day 29

red squares in the marais...

here is the thing. I'm a bit hungover today - last night we went to a super funky party on the 4th floor of an enormous apartment in montmartre overlooking the whole of paris. we cut up the dance floor like it was 1979 and arrived home at 7.30am. so, since I'm ten years older than last time I did that, I'm spending the day in bed. these squares were found, felafel in hand, during my ten minute grease stop in the middle of the day. I thought capturing the funk wasn't very arty: but should I take the camera next time?

day 28

making dad's kumera tonight and needed spices. my favorite shop, on my favorite street: anything you want, this guy has by the kilo...

day 27

it was anzac day and grandad's anniversary. we went to the anzac ceremony at the arch de triomphe. it's the 90th anniversary of the great war, so they marked it with a flag the size of a small country




we walked in the procession on the champs élysées. we were
pushed in because we were australian. it was quite an
unexpected experience...

day 26

at the entrance of the new musée quai branly. the same architect Jean Nouvel who made the insitute du monde arabe. controversial art inside a gorgeous building. I'm not sure yet what I think - contemporary artists being portrayed in an anthropological setting? but today was for loving everything and the building is sumptuous.




denis and fred cooked quail, asparagus, prosciutto and more. the day has been delightful...

day 25

I didn't mean to go to notre dame, I was going to the market next door (to buy €10 of flowers), but it is so gorgeous I had to go in.







I went in and lit a candle for grandma
and mum - in thanks. religious or not, it's a gorgeous place.
joan of arc had her reputation 'rehabilitated' in this church. better late than never...

day 24

of all nights not to take my camera! this is, I'm afraid, all you get of the Jan Fabre show I just saw (except the following monologue in the comments section).

day 23

today I stumbled across this life-size ballerina in the découpage section of BHV. I thought perhaps this was indicative of where dance stands in french society: in australia, our découpage isles are full of jesus' and puppies.
since I've been here I've not once had to clarify the difference between a choreographer and chiropractor. can a department store reveal such possibilities?

day 22

colour co-ordination in the jardin du luxemburg

the light is so different.
even on an overcast day the green has an iridescent quality that almost hurts the eye.

day 21

it was inevitable that we would end up in a club where a naked man was showering over the bar - we do live in the marais after all...

day 20

the auld alliance bar: an old alliance between the scottish and the french. strange bedfellows but to prove they were still keen on the french, dogs are allowed inside.

my last day of french classes. I wasn't as bad as I'd expected: lower your expectations and the world is your oyster...

day 19

finally someone bought me flowers.
denis, my french friend, said he bought these because they matched my floor.
the frenchies are so considerate...

day 18

le métro renne, direction montparnasse...

day 17

today the french teacher made me, in front of the whole class, sing + dance the conjugation of
avoir (to have). he wanted it to the theme of the pink panther...

day 16

busy day at the office. andrew morrish came to help...

day 15

making hot chocolate in the studio's kitchen.

day 14

french contemporary dance in a department store with mandatory gallery, bar and dj station.
this store is so super-funky that even the über people aren't allowed. it's that fabulous.
100sqm of shiny bright floor space with gorgeous people nonchalantly looking at gorgeous things...

day 13

a break in between unpacking.

day 12

"toujours imité, jamais égalé" - always copied, but never equalled. I love it!

this impressive sign is above a hole in the wall in the marais. truly delightful.

finally at cité des arts. it's not quite what I'd expected...

day 11

It's our last day in the suburbs - we're moving to cité des arts tomorrow.

under the guise of needing some extra milk I made gordon walk to the shops with me so I could get this photo. as we approached I started to practice my pathetic french in case someone was out the front.
"you can't take a photo there" gordon hissed "they're gypsy squatters. they'll say yes, ask you inside for a vodka and the next thing you'll know you will wake up in the ukraine minus a kidney".
but I’ve been wanting to photograph this all week. a good stencil is hard to find over here.
“I’m going to keep walking" he ranted, "if you get taken, I’m dressing up in drag and I’ll pretend to be you for the next three months - no one will ever know. I’ve got your walk down pat. don’t think that I wont”.

no one was outside when I got there, but without a backward glance, gordon continued walking.
next time you see me, check out my legs just in case - gordon's are much nicer...

day 10

L'Institut du Monde Arabe. this building is made up of thousands of tiny metal irises that open and close depending on the light outside. a wall that is constantly moving in response to the sun.

it must have been bitterly expensive to build: thousands of tiny mechanised irises.
but they did it because it's beautiful. the building, and the people who wanted it, are an inspiration.

I hoped it would come….

day 9

it snowed. I thought I was just being precious when the spring air made my eyes sting and my throat ache. but it's 11am and the snow isn't going anywhere. I wasn't prepared for this. surprises are good, no?

day 8

dinner at chez fred.

day 7

I baked. chocolate and pear tarts with caramel sauce.

day 6

Arche de la Défense. it's like being on a set of blake 7.

this city has always struck me as one of contradictions: so revealing but only available superficially for visitors. so open in it's beauty it's almost sleight of hand, but full of sneaky surprises if you can drag yourself away from the seductive.
which is a challenge in itself. an editor told me that in film you can only use a breathtaking shot if you use it for less time than you want. too much is, frankly, too much. I don't usually subscribe to that on stage - but this city has me thinking.

la Défense is certainly not beautiful. nor is it revealing. but it's good to know that even the french can miss the point once in a while. it has to be seen to be believed. I can't capture it: singapore meets dr who.

gordon took this one...

day 5

still not sleeping: so spent all day at home except to go out and find this strange square.
I took this for leesa - I thought she'd like it.

yesterday I failed the basic beginners french test at the alliance francais. spectacular failure is always disappointing.
we ate goat's cheese to feel better, sold by a man in a tiny shop who wrapped it in soft, white paper.
attention to detail is lovely. it melted and cheered us. the wine helped too...

day 4

finally into paris and cité des arts (at the right of this shot). it took an hour - but the colour hasn't changed.

still grey and wet. but even wet, grey and full of dog shit, this city can take away your breath.
no matter how many times you have been here.

if inspiration doesn't come here, then it's gone forever. I'm holding my breath...

day 3

colour is shocking here.